About Karen Stewart
I have been designing and creating with fabric for as long as I can remember, but in 2015 I was introduced to the ancient art of wet felting and was instantly captivated by the tactile nature of the medium and incredible versatility of it. Since then, I have worked predominantly in wool but also incorporate multiple textiles including silk fibres and fabrics, plant fibres and wool locks and yarns to create richly detailed textures inspired by nature. Colour and texture are integral to my work.
I am a member of the International Feltmakers Association.
My Inspiration
The primary focus for all of my work is texture. Nature offers an endless array of textures to study, from the gnarled, knotted, twisted bark of an ancient oak, to the delicate lace of foam left by receding waves. These are the elements that truly captivate me and provide the starting point for all of my work. I aim to capture this texture by incorporating a wide variety of natural materials into the wool including silk fibres and fabrics, plant fibres, curly locks and yarns and I utilise a range of techniques to create hollows and craters, lumps and bumps, slashes and slits and other relief elements. I hope to inspire others to notice and appreciate the beauty of these textures in nature.
Depending on the techniques and materials used, there are seemingly endless possibilities for coaxing and manipulating the felt into an array of shapes and textures, but no two pieces are ever the same. The inherent nature of the wool and the felting process used, means the outcome is never entirely within your control. This can be both frustrating and exciting!
My Use of Colour
Wool can be dyed in any colour of the rainbow and it was whilst feltmaking that I suddenly discovered a deep connection with colour. I found colour could influence my mood. It could lift me, energise me, excite me, or even comfort me. It makes me feel happier and more alive! My colour combinations are inspired by nature’s seasons and the ever-changing light and mood of those seasons. The fresh vibrant new greens of spring inspire hope and optimism, the deep azure blues of the sea and sky with splashes of red, yellow and pink flowers in summer create a sense of joy and energy, and of course the rich coppery browns, ochre yellows and rusty oranges of autumn conjure up the feelings of cosiness and warmth, preparing for the quieter and cooler months ahead. I hope to evoke some of these emotions from the viewer when creating my work.
What is wet felting?
Wet felting involves laying out wisps of wool in different directions, sprinkling them with warm soapy water and then gently rubbing and rolling them until all the fibres have completely bonded together. During the process, other fibres and materials can be incorporated, such as silk threads and fabrics to decorate the surface of the felt. Scarves are made in one flat piece, but neck warmers, vessels, hats and bags are made by felting around a resist (or waterproof template) that is then removed part way through the felting process, and gently moulded by hand into the shape you want. This is often called seamless felting or 3D.
The Properties of Wool
Did you know that wool is showerproof and stain resistant? Water, dust and dirt tend to sit on the surface, so if a bag or scarf gets wet in the rain, just give it a shake and the water will fall off. If it gets dirty, the dirt can be easily sponged off, or the whole item gently handwashed in lukewarm water. Wool is also insulating, heat regulating, and hard wearing. If you flatten a wool item or scrunch it up, it will just spring back; it will not crush or crease. And, when felted thoroughly, it is incredibly strong too.
Each individual wool fibre is covered with a layer of overlapping scales and it is these overlapping scales that entangle and matt together during the process of feltmaking to form a firm solid fabric. The water and soap we use opens up the scales, and agitation such as rubbing and rolling entangles the fibres. The more friction that is used, the more the fibres entangle and the firmer the felt becomes. The felt also shrinks by up to 30-50% during this process. And if you have ever put a wool jumper in the washing machine by mistake, you will know that this shrinking effect is irreversible. The fibres felt down so much they cannot be pulled apart again. Thoroughly felted wool will never fray or pull apart.
There are many different breeds of sheep and types of wool. Some sheep produce beautiful fine, soft wool such as merino and some produce coarse, hardwearing wool like Welsh Mountain sheep. Then there are wools that are produced by combining different breeds of sheep. Wools that are fine are used for clothing and other items worn next to the skin, while coarser wools are used for bags, boots, vessels etc as they are more hardwearing and do not pill as much as fine wool. If wool is felted very thoroughly it should not pill very much at all. If it does pill, then any fluff can be shaved off with a wool (sweater) shaver.
Where to find me
I recently moved to the wonderful small village of Saltby, which sits between Melton Mowbray and Grantham, and now have my own studio, which is heaven! I am therefore now able to offer workshops in wet felting from my studio for up to 4 people. I also set up my online shop to showcase/sell my work and am happy to accept commissions and make a bespoke item especially for you. Please contact me for more information.
